Pre-A/W 12- Celine- Ever the Cool Girl

Pre-A/W 12- Celine- Ever the Cool Girl.

Pre-A/W 12- Celine- Ever the Cool Girl

Phoebe Philo has created another wonderful collection that once again proves to be utterly irrestitable.  She claims that the pre-A/W 12 collection is a “continuation of the Céline wardrobe.”  This applies and can be seen through the androginous play of the clothes, which is a key aesthetic that the designer has been developing since her start at Celine.   However, the term “continuation” (applied to this season’s collection) is not to be misinterpreted with “same old.”  New shapes, silhouette and aesthetic were introduced, which worked together really well and expanded on the brand’s philosophy of what it is and where it is going.

The main fabrics used were a beautiful  combination of metallic brocade, grey suiting fabric, wovens with a shiny finish and wool.  I mean, what a combination! Although there were many different fabrics used throughout the collection, is Philo’s ability to combine them together in an understated way that really shines through.  We are talking brocade and furs, suiting with wool and my personal favourite brocade and leather.  The colours really complemented themselves too.  Grey, metallic silver, white, black and hues of red and cobalt blue really highlighted pieces and gave a quirky twist to the collection.

What I really liked about this collection is the volume that was introduced throughout the pieces.  I am personally loving the different trouser shapes, which appeared to be a key element in this capsule collection.  The tapered boyish trousers were teamed with a high waisted peplum top, which was perfectly balanced. I really liked the leather track pants too, they give a sportier/edgier look to the Celine girl.     Another highlight for me was the strealined shirt colourblocked shirt.  Natural hues (beige/grey) were contrasted with white and a harsh black.

Utilitarian, edgy, modern, sexy, classic.  What more do you want!

Bravo.

Pre A/W 12 – Stella Mcartney- Masculine Vs Feminine- Who Wins?

Oh my! Stella McCartney made me fall in love again.  This happens EVERY season.  I really loved the collection for this Pre A/W 12 season line.  It must be McCartney’s ability to balance masculine with feminine in a clever and very cool way.  So cool it’s hot, so hot it’s cool.  ok enough gushing, down to business now.

The designer explained that for the Autumn/Winter collections there is always a larger starting point, and therefore it’s about “Giving a voice to the different facets of a woman.”  This viewpoint can clearly be seen throughout the collection, as although styling details are kept within the same kind of look, the pieces vary dramatically in essence, catering from heritage/equastrian, elegant lady and masculine/feminine play.  This collection IS about catering to the modern woman, who is involved and has many multiple roles within her life.  The designer’s words perfectly explain this;  “It’s less about referencing something specific and more . . . psychological.”

The shapes themselves are kept true to the design house; simple, modern, fuss-free and sophisticated.    The more feminine pieces featured midi lenght skirts made of beautiful woven solid dyed pieces, or lace.  The tops teamed with these “lady” pieces feature boat necklines, and midi lenght flared sleeves.  Overall, the look is conservative. Although there is a cheeky little gold brocade bodice featuring a large bow at front in there, again showing that the designer is keen to show the many personalities of a woman!  The print used throughout these pieces both lift and bring a fun element to them.  On the more masculine clothes, not much print features, it is more about using beautiful fabric that falls flat and clean to complement the sharp cuts.  My favourites are the wool jumpsuit with oversized contrast pockets and black kimono overlap long sleeved blazer.  Wow!

The colours used are great too; just look at the blue! Electryfying! Black/Grey/White/Blue/Orange/Wine Red make for classic yet attention seeking palette.

A few words from the designer;

 “We’ve taken an urban city girl and balanced her with a softer, country side and then there’s masculine versus feminine,” says McCartney.  “It’s something I always tend to do, but each season it’s about figuring the puzzle out a little more.”

Pre A/W 12- Givenchy Girls- Walking in those fab Boots and to the Beat of their own drum!

Wowzer.  The Givenchy girl for the Pre A/W 12 sure knows how to dress!!!  I must absolutely start from bottom up…Those boots are a great new shape and silhouette, and compliment the clothes perfectly.  When you look at them they seem wrong, as it is an unusual shape to say the least.  I love the look they help to convey.  And what look is this you ask?  Well…I would say unique, ultra modern and with traditional quirky twists.

The first couple of pieces featured ultra sharply cut outerwear, which nodded to several styles and looks by using various cutting techniques and combination of fabrics.  The modern, avant garde look was provided by the extreme clean cut rounded shoulders, minimal slit pockets and sharply cut extended mandarin collars.  The quirky detailing nodded to the origami/oriental trend that was massive during SS11…and still very much seen on the high street in terms of kimono sleeve and slouchy bodies.  I simply loved the really structured lapel collars, especially the when the points extended outwards toward the body…these jackets do all the talking!  The traditional I feel was brought in by the heavy use of tweed fabrics. To avoid it looking too classic, it was of course mixed with other outerwear fabrics and leather, for a hybrid heritage/luxe sport-fetish feel to the pieces.  Although there is a lot going on, Riccardo Tisci has managead to keep it sublimely understated.

The shapes were kept relatively simple, especially in the tops department.  I personally loved the colour block woven tee, which used olive green, black and a metallic leather.  I mean, what a combination!  Necklines were primarily kept high…the lowest being a slight scooped neck.  Other interesting neck finished were reworked mandarin collars and pussy bow front ties.  Sleeves were extended or short flared, carrying on this popular cut seen in the ever increasingly popular sport luxe trend.

Hems on skirts were kept short, or at least never going below knee level.  Cuts varied, with lovely flaring, ultra fitted pencil, or with pleated varieties.  I want to get my hands on that midi lenght pleated skirt with leather inserts.  It would be the only time I would probs wear tweed!  If you’re going to go for it…do it properly!

The colours were used in a quirky way, but which worked really really well…I think because of the cooky and “new” essence that this collection has brought.  (Erdem too experimented with colours that were so wrong they were right…perhaps an emerging trend of colour clashing what you thought couldn’t colour clash before in on the way up!) Colours included, black, white, olive, cherry red, brown and orange.

Pre A/W 12 – I wanna be a Wang Girlllll

Alexander Wang does it for me every single time! How does he do it??

Let’s start with the clean colour palette and the fantastically sophisticated wearable shapes, that feature those cooky little details 🙂

The shapes used throughout were clean and modern, minimal in styling with maximum stylishness.  Woven see through chiffon blouses appeared with large oversized patch pockets, long sleeves and concealed plackets in an array of colours…black/white/nude.  Sophistication and sportyness were keywords used to develop these shapes, which also were extended height wise into adorable and utterly desirable dresses…a real nod to the luxe sport that has been so strong on the catwalks.

The shirts were teamed with either short straight lined skirts, all on tone on tone colour palette or with v-shaped cami dresses, where hemlines fell to mid calf level.  A real simple, layered look, which would work well for that time of year when the collection will hit stores.  It really gave depth to the pieces from a styling point of view.

Draping techniques appeared on dresses, which are set to be massive for A/W 12-13…I am particularly looking at the lovely jersey long sleeved mini dresses or high collared sleeveless mid calf lenght navy beauties!

Other kooky detailing I really liked was the shoulder detailing on the dresses/sleeveless pieces…Wang introduced a panel insert at top of armhole, which gave a real armoresque structured finish.

The colours worked beautifully together, mixing classics such as black/white/ nude with punchier, saturated hues to lift the collection such as tomato red and midnight navy.